Coat and similar garment.



No. 829,029. I PATENTED AUG. 21, 1906.

' J. J. MGLOUGHLIN.

GOAT AND SIMILAR GARMENT.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT. 6,1906.

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No- 829,029. PATENTED AUG. 21, 1906. J. J. MOLOUGHLIN.

GOAT AND SIMILAR GARMENT.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT. 6.1905.

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UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

COAT AND SIMELAR GARMENT.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Aug. 21, 19L6.

I Application filed Septemlier 6, 19 06 Serial No. 277,216.

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, Josnrn J. MoLoUon- LIN, a citizen of the United'States, residing at Chicago, Cook county, Illinois, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Coats and Similar Garments; and I do hereby declare the following to be a. full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

My invention relates to improvements in coats and similar garments, and more particularly to the construction of the fore parts of such garments which when combined with the other parts comprising a complete garment will produce a smooth unwrinkled front edge, will distribute the material over the breast, waist, andhips, and will produce a perfectly-balanced garment with a new and improved effect in the balance of the back, front shoulder, and front edge of the-coat without the customary drawing or working in of the material along the front edge and the pressing in and back of the surplus material from the front edge, which is the method used at present to form a breast with a straight front edge. 1

In the drafting of coats, vests, and similar garments it has been the customary or, in fact, the universal practice of cutters to draft-the front line of the fore part with more or less of a round or convex edge in the endeavor to suit the requirements of the figure. The round or convex form of the front line or edge during the construction or making of the garment has to be worked or drawn in on the canvas by a stay-tape, which is put on sufficiently tight to draw this round or convex This drawing in of the convex front line into a straight edge forms a series of gathers of fullness which have to be shrunk and pressed back into the center of the fore part. This working in of the front edge is one of the most difficult operations known to the tailors 'art and even when successfully accomplished will frequently develop unsightly and undesirable characteristics in the finished garment, such as a ridge or marginal projection due to the stay-tape, or a series of wrinkles or blisters in the material along the front' edge, neither of which objectionable features can be subsequently eradicated. Furthermore, the pressing in and back of the surplus material from the front toward the rear of the fore part to provide the necessary swells or curves over the breast and hips produces a distortion of the fabric which when the set or strain is gradually removed or relieved as the garment-is'worn results most frequently in a series of wrinkles or creases, which throw the whole garment out of balance. It has been proposed to obviate the first difficultyto wit, the drawing or puckering of the front edge of the finished garmentby advancing the shoulder-points; but this expedient, while in a measure improving the conditions by shortening the front edge and in some degree reducing the amount of working in of the front edge to produce a temporary smooth effect, tends to carry the whole garment too far to the front, causing it to strike or breakover the hips, to breakor wrinkle in front of-the arm-scye, and, in fact, throws the whole garment out of balance.

The present invention is designed to obviate these difficulties and to enable a tailor or to accurately fit any figure, which garment willrequire no drawing or working in of the front edges and no stretching or ironing of the fabric to produce the breast and hip swells, but will conform easily, gracefully, and naturally to the contour of the body with an improved effect in the balance of the back which drapes from the shoulder over the waist and hips in an unbroken line, a correctly-balanced shoulder and front, presenting a perfect, even, smooth, unbroken front edge which will retain its proper position on short, preserve its proper intended shape un der the ordinary exigencies of wear.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 is a plan of a pattern of the fore part of a coat embodying one convenient form of the inven tion. Fig. 2 is a similar view showing a modification.

Referring to Fig. l of the drawings, the dotted-line figure represents the usual pattern for the fore part of a straight front-edge sackcoat, which, as will be noted, is provided with a considerable forward curve along the front edge and upward inclination of the bottom 'edgeand a side-seam line carried upward directly to its juncture with the arm-scye. A fore part out by such a pattern when working into a finished garment produces the objectionable features hereinbefore noted, which i the present invention is designed to obviate. i The full-lined figure of the drawings reprel sents a'pattern for a fore part of the same cutterof. ordinary. skillto produce a garment the figure, free from breaks or puckers, and, in

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4 respectively, between which is the shoulder-- conventional garment which embodies the features of my invention. It will be understood, of course, that the fore part is cut in conformity with the pattern, the usual rules governing the cutting and fashioning being observed in so far as they are in accordance with the invention. In said full-line figure, 1 and 2 are the front and back shoulder-points,

line which may conform to that of the regular pattern, as shown in the dotted-line fig ure. The arm scye is indicated by the curved lines 3 3, and the sideseam line by 4, the latter being cut more nearly with the length of the fabric than the corresponding line in the old pattern, thereby throwing the upper part of said line out beyond the corresponding portion of line in the old pattern and bringing the lower portion within the latter. The bottom edge 5 is dropped below the corresponding line in the old pattern, beginning at the lower corner of the front line,

thereby providing a generally triangular section of surplus material below the bottom line of the old material. The front line 6 of the fore part extends beyond the corresponding old pattern at top and bottom in order to the old form, the purpose of which will be fully explained hereinafter. The extension of the upper part of the front edge causes the given an upward inclination from the point 7, as indicated. Substantially in line with the fold of the lapel there is provided a dart 20, formed by a reentrant generally V-shaped cut, the forward edge of which is provided with a salient angle. and the rear edge of which is substantially straight. In the front edge of the dart 20 at the salient angle aforesaid there is formed a \/shaped dart-22, extending diagonally upward toward the top line of-the lapel, and in the rear edge an oppositely-disposed \l-shaped dart 21 of somewhat greater length is formed. Substan tially at the waist-line, and preferably in the cut or incision made for the pocket-mouth, there is formed an open dart 10, running from the forward end of the pocket-mouth and widening toward the rear, and opening into the dart 10 and extending well upward. into the breast portion is a dart 11, which is of inverted-V shape and may be formed as either an open or a closed dart. It will be noted that the rear portion 3 of the armscye is cut lower than the main portion 3 thereof, and extending from the adjacent edges of said scye to the horizontal dart 10 is a dart 12, the sides of which diverge upwardly and meet substantially in the rear closing line of dart 10. Near their upper ends the edges of dart 12 are provided with sets of marks 18 13 and 14 14, respectively, which indicate the meeting points of the dart edges when the parts are brought together in finishing the garment. It will be understood that in preparing the parts for a complete coat two fore parts are cut by the pattern, as described, and a back and a collar of usual form are fitted together. In completing each fore part the edges of dart 20 are drawn together and united by a seam, and the edges of the lateral darts 21 22 are closed and seamed or cross-stitched, as desired. This has the effect of bringing the upper line of the lapel in alinement with the neck-slope line 9, imparting a natural preliminary roll to the lapel, and draws in the upper part of the front edge in a smooth straight line without wrinkles or puckers. The darts 10, 11, and 12 are then successively closed and seamed in any desired order with the following result: The closing of dart 10 lifts the skirt below the waist-line, controls the bottom line 5, and forms the fullness over the hips. Dart 11 when closed accurately controls and defines the relation of the front edge 6, drawing the latter backward until it is smooth and straight throughout its entire length. In closing dart 12 marks 14 14Land 13 13 are brought into registry, thereby lifting the lower rear portion of the fore part and the back piece into proper position and bringing the two lines of the scye into registry and also cooperating with dart 11 in placing the extra fullness of the material in proper curves over the breast and hips. Therefore when the several darts 10, 11, and 12 are closed, their combined effect is as follows: The front edge of the garment is straightened and controlled by drawing the surplus material forming the extra extension along the front edge, thereby completely eliminating the so-called working in of the front edge and also the concurrent ironing and pressing of the fabric to, form the breast and hip swells. The surplus material forming said extension is disposed easily and smoothly over the breast, waist, and hips. The skirt and back of the coat are drawn upward and backward with-' out stretching, thereby drawing the lower front edge backward, placing the lower part of the skirt gracefully over the hips and producing an easy fit that is not liable to distortion. By this upward movement the back part of the coat is carried well up on the shoulders, producing a clean fitting side and back and an improved shoulder-balance with the square and upright effect so much desired and heretofore produced only by heavy padding on the shoulders. In order to take up the fullness in the lower edge of the pocketmouth, small darts 15 are provided in said edge, which when closed produce a smooth finish along said edge without puckering or wrinkling, and the seams or overstitching are hidden by the pocketflap. As hereinbefore noted, when the dart 12 is closed the marks 13 13 and 14 14, respectively, are

1 necessary fullness or swell over the breast adjacent to the arm, which has heretofore been quite difficult to obtain in full-chested straight figures, and the effect produced is an evenly full but a clean front of arm effect. Vhen this fullness is properly combined with the usual fullness produced by the regular slight working in of the front of the arm side, it allowsthe necessary extra length for the insertion of a plait when desired to cause the garment to assume the correct up and down or perpendicular formation. This effect gives the draping necessary to conceal the defects in a fiat-chested figure also and gives ample room over the breast and in front of the arm for the erect and full-chested figure.

It has been demonstrated that a fore part out in accordance with the directions hereinbefore noted and with the several darts properly closed and seamed distributes a considerably greater length of goods over the prominent part of the breast and waist than was possible with the old pattern, following the natural contour of the body without stretching or distortion of the fabric. This effect has heretofore been only possible of attainment, and then only partially, by shortening or working in the front edge of the garment and ironing or pressing the material backward over the breast and hips. Generally the amount of goods required to properly drape the breast and hips and to secure the proper set of the garment is more than can be secured by the old method, as too much material would have to be allowed to permit the front edge to be worked in, and even if this latter operation were attempted the material could not be pressed over by the tailor into proper position over the breast and hips. As hereinbefore stated, the front edges of the fore parts constructed in accordance with my invention when worked into a complete garment lie in perfectly smooth unbroken lines, free from all wrinkles or blisters, such as are caused by the present system of working in the edges or drawing in the same by staytape, both of which defects show more or less, according to the fabric used in the garment. Moreover, when a straight hanging front edge is desired the same may be produced without any working in whatever. The production of this straight edge is rendered possible by the extra allowance added to the regular pattern at the front, which cooperates with the darts in drawing the front edge backward and upward into the desired position. This straight front edge permits of the pattern be ing placed substantially straight or parallel with the edge of the goods from which the fore parts are to be cut, which is of particular advantage in working up striped goods, as the stripes will be caused to run parallel to the front edge of the garment.

It will be understood,of course, that the extra allowance of goods which forms the projection of the front edge beyond the ordinary pattern and the size and extent of the various darts must necessarily be left to the judg ment of the individual cutter, who has to take into consideration the physical proportions of the customer; but the general relation of the various features of my invention must be preserved. It may be noted, however, that under certain conditions the darts 11 and 12 may be combined. to produce a single substantially rectangular dart or incision running-between the arm-scye and the hori- Zontal dart 10, and the position of this combined dart maybe varied slightly with respect to the body of the fore part as good judgment may dictate.

Fig. 2 illustrates the modification referred. to, which possesses all of the essential characteristic features of thefore part hereinbcfore described, except that the dart 11, extending from dart 10 toward the breast, is omitted. This omission is compensated,however, by providing a relatively wide dart 12, extending from the bottom of the arm-scye to the horizontal dart 10. The dart 12, which may,.if desired, be produced by an actual incision or cutting out of an appropriate section of the material, as indicated in Fig. 2, will be made of such dimensions and given such location as to subserve the same general functions as darts 11 and 12 conjointly, as the latter are illustrated in Fig. 1. It is to be understood, therefore, that by the term dart as herein employed is meant a cutout, incised, or other equivalent section or portion of the goods of which the fore parts are made designed to accomplish the objects of the invention as set forth, and it is intended that the claims are to receive a commensurate interpretation.

By the practice of .my invention as hereinbefore described it is possible to produce a practically perfect fitting garment having a clean even shoulder-balance, an easy graceful conformance to the lines of the breast, waist, and hips without any stretching of the material whatever, and a perfectly smooth straight front edge without the employment of the usual methods of pressing or working in the material along the front edge to straighten the latter and distribute the goods over the breast and hips.

What I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

1. A fore part for coats and similar garments having an extra extension along the front edge thereof, and a dart extending from the arm-scye toward the waist-line.

2. fore part for coats and similar garments having an extra extension along the front edge thereof, a dart extending from the arm-scye toward the waist-line, and a second dart extending upwardly from the Waist-linev toward the breast.

3. A fore part for coats and similar garments having an extra extension along the front edge thereof, a substantially horizontal dart at the waist-line extending toward the rear edge, and a dart extending from the armseye to said first-mentioned dart.

4. A fore part for coats and similar garments having an extra extension along the front edge thereof, a substantially horizontal dart at the waist-line extending toward the rear edge, a dart extending from the arm scye to said first-mentioned dart, and a third dart extending from the horizontal dart upward toward the breast.

5. A fore part for coats and similar garments having an extra extension along the front edge thereof, a dart located in substantial alinement with the fold ofthe lapel, a dart on each side thereof and substantially normal thereto, a substantially horizontal dart at the waist-line extending toward the rear edge, and a dart extending from the arm scye to said horizontal dart.

6. A fore part for coats and similar garments having an extra extension along the front edge thereof, a dart located in substantial alinement with the fold of the lapel, a dart on each side thereof and substantially normal thereto, a substantially horizontal dart at the waist-line extending toward the rear edge, a dart extending from the armscye to said horizontal dart, and a dart extending from the horizontal dart upward toward the breast.

7. A fore part for coats and similar garments, provided with means for straightening and controlling the front edge without "working in and pressing back the material along said edge, comprising a rearwardlyex tending dart near the waist-line, a dart extending therefrom toward the breast, and a dart extending from the arm-scye to said horizontal dart.

8. A fore part for coats and similar garments, provided with means for straightening and controlling the front edge without working in and pressing back the material along said edge, comprising an extra extensionalong the front edge, a rearwardly-extending dart near the waist-line, a dart extending therefrom toward the breast, and a dart extending from the arm-seye to said horizontal dart.

9. A fore part for coats and similar garments, provided with means for straightening and controlling the front edge without working in and pressing back the material along said edge, comprising an extra extension along the front edge, and a dart extending from near" the waist-line toward the breast.

In testimony whereof I affix my signature in presence of two witnesses.

JOSEPH J. MOLOUGHLIN.

Witnesses:

CHAS. J. ONEILL, JOHN C. PENNIE. 

